
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kriv%C3%A1%C5%88_%28peak%29
http://wikitravel.org/en/Vysok%C3%A9_Tatry
So this is the story of the time I was lost at night in the woods on the face of the most famous mountain in Slovakia with only the light of an Ipod to guide me.
The plan to go hiking in the High Tatras was formed when I purchased a map of Poland and noticed a cluster of mountains along the Southern Border. I thought to myself, “I’ve never hiked up a mountain before” and that’s all the thought I put into it.
You have to remember, in 2007, Google Maps was still in it’s infancy and Mapquest had limited coverage anywhere outside of the US and Canada. For example: Google only showed 4 roads total in the country of Romania, none of which lead to Brașov, a city of nearly 300,000. I had a GPS, but it didn’t have road listings anywhere east of Austria, so it was paper maps I had to rely on through this entire trip.
As I wrote yesterday, I was headed South from Krakow toward the border between Poland and Slovakia near Poprad. I left Krakow late in the day and I had elected to cross the border at a smaller, less trafficked crossing. It was well after dark when I pulled up to a candy-cane stripped pole with an adjacent guard shack which marked the border. Inside were four guards: two Polish, two Slovak, all asleep. Their faces were pressed against the glass like small children napping in a van. I thought for a second of just lifting the barrier myself, it was just a wooden pole without any lock or other mechanism, but the inner rule-follower in me won out. A few knocks on the window of the shack woke up the guards, who were not happy with the disturbance. None spoke much English, but through a series of gestures and grunts they requested to see just about every piece of identification and documentation I had with me to include my immunization card. After about a half-hour of this, the apparently senior guard threw up his hands in frustration and signaled to the other guard to lift the barrier. I was into Slovakia.
I’d actually been in Slovakia before, I’d spent a weekend in Bratislava a few month’s earlier, (See # 09522 Visit Slovakia: Stay in the Botel in Bratislava, coming soon) but the Eastern part of the country was far different and much less developed.

This is actually one of the country's top tourist spots.
I stopped at a gas station, picked up some snacks and a topographical map of the Tatras, and then headed to a hotel. After a night’s sleep and a breakfast I headed off towards the mountains. I selected Kriváň based on the fact it was tall, (second tallest in the range I learned) located near the road, and the map indicated the hiking trail up the mountain was of only moderate difficulty.
I would only learn later that Kriváň held a special place in Slovak history. Ascents are traced back to at least the 18th Century and in the 50s under communism, the ascent was institutionalized as an annual celebration of resistance against fascism. I large hammer and sickle statue was placed at the summit. The event, called The National Ascent of Kriváň, (Národný výstup na Kriváň) continues to this day though it is now seen as a nationalist celebration, and the statue has been replaced by a Slovak cross so the summit now resembles the coat of arms of the Slovak Republic.

The image chosen for the country's Euro coin was similar to this photo I took
A well-maintained road skirts the Southern edge of the Tatras, and I parked my car on the shoulder near a trail head. I was wearing khakis, a t-shirt and a thin fleece. I carried a small backpack with 2 liters of water, a few snacks, a cap and my iPod.

The South Face
The three routes up the mountain are clearly marked —normally. However in 2004 the south face of the mountain (the one I was climbing up) had been hit my high winds which had denuded large parts of it. Many of the old trail marking had been on trees and the well established trails had to be rerouted due to debris. There were several times during the early part of the ascent I lost the trail and had to backtrack to find it.
Once I moved above the tree line the trail became easier to follow, as the blazes were now on rocks. It’s a fascinating experience to ascend a tall peak on foot. You get to see the trees grow smaller and then disappear completely, followed by shrubs and grasses as well. For a while it’s just rocks and lichens, and then the lichens fade away too. And then you hit permafrost. The experience of actually climbing from a warm late summer day into permanent winter gives a reality and sense of scale to the journey. When you drive or ride the train, everything on the other side of the glass might as well be a movie. You enter, sit down in a chair and a few hours later you emerge into a different place entirely, but if you walk, move under your own power, you know every inch of the trip is real.
The problem with climbing a mountain is that when you get to the top, you have to get back down. In this case I had burned far more time than I planned on with backtracking on the early part of the trail. I hurried down as quickly as I could and I was doing fine until I hit the treeline again. Again I lost the trail, and night closed in. I used the light of my iPod screen to located a few more trail blazes before abandoning the trail entirely. I decided to use the position of the moon to plot a course due South. My hope was I would be able to hit the road, and then find my car. When I tell people this story the ask if I was scared. I was scared. Not panicked about being lost in the woods of a foreign country where no one knew where I was, but I did have one recurring thought—Are there bears in Slovakia?
Eventual I did hit the road and less than a half-mile west of where I had parked. By this time it was well past ten at night, so rather than trying to find a hotel, I again spent the night in my car. The next morning I headed towards Budapest. More on this to follow.
Posted in Travel
Tags: border crossing, Help! I'm lost in the woods, Kriváň, sleeping on the job, Slovakia